BY GIUSEPPE CASTRENZE
Fashion! Who can control it. Do we know someone who has managed to radically change their rhythms? It is clear that it is not a question here of considering the great designers, the great exponents who have given a great impression to his being capricious. Its seasonality, its causes and its rhythms always present?
In 1952 Giovanni Battista Giorgini organized the first collective parade in the White Room of Palazzo Pitti. And then high fashion in Rome, Hollywood on the Tiber. Milan and then the other big cities had their own fashion week. Far from this being a boring essay, for some, of fashion history, we think of the Empress Fashion. Fashion is not a controllable social phenomenon. Social changes follow.
The COVID-19 epidemic has stopped its economic rhythms, but sociologically speaking, fashion is too emotional. He dictated his laws without asking anyone's permission. Do we live in an era where everything is digital, but can fashion really become a digital phenomenon? In part it is already well before COVID, with the blogger and the influencer. It is still a communication phenomenon. Loud creatives are asking for time, they need to expand the times of fashion. Fashion that by definition does not have times. And it is very difficult to control it. Paradox?
I think a slight slowdown is right to make room for the creativity of each brand. The elaboration of the collections by the public is necessary. I think, however, whether successful or not, fashion can never go digital. It is too complex to be reduced to a device screen. It is too emotional. Milan Digital Fashion Week preceded by the others, had nothing to do with real fashion shows. For those who have never experienced a backstage show, they cannot fully understand. It is not about that short time where the models are parading, but all the work that precedes it. Do you want to eliminate all this? I hope not.
That's not to say it wasn't interesting. Many brands presented their collections with a gorgeous fashion film, with an emotional aspect capable of going further and capturing the public directly, which is then the consumer. And this was his power. Being able to climb the elite and become almost within everyone's reach. Will this be his future? We reveal here the moments and the brands that surprised us most.
An anthology of the fundamentals of the Magliano universe in the form of a futuristic music box.
The models turn on a platform, showing the garments that can be worn in lapels thus showing the seams.
The augmented reality of Isabella Santacroce evokes the spirits of the brand's mythological characters.
Luca Magliano is confirmed as one of the most interesting designers.
“For the Prada Spring/Summer 2021, a singular statement is replaced by the perspectives of many: multiple views, by a multitude of global creatives. The collection suggests the approach: different views, for a collection that proposes a myriad interpretations of the Prada man and woman. Congruent yet individually delineated, the collection is proposed in five chapters, which in turn are interpreted by five image-makers and artists. Terence Nance, Joanna Piotrowska, Martine Syms, Juergen Teller and Willy Vanderperre each propose a film capturing a facet of the Prada collection, distinct and definite in its creative statement and ideology, a point of view on Prada.”
“Who needs to wear pants in Zoom-land? Virtual face-to-face meetings launched the season's waist-up dress code. This might not be the reason why M1992 is dropping a seven-look collection for Spring/Summer 2021, favoring the shirt and chain jewelry. However, it's a given that not wearing pants can be liberating. Shall we suggest "BRAINWASHHH" as a proper treatment? Or do we consider our brains already washed out by fake news and uncertain transparency? Have we now become so used to being lied to and manipulated, that the whole fake newsand brainwashsituations simply fly over our heads as part of a permanent log in?”
San Andrès Milan
THESAME, Fashion Film Emotion. A collection that emerges. It is certainly the most interesting collection. Garments that seek nostalgic harmony in their symmetry. The collection can be worn by both him and her. Genderless. This is surely the best way to conceive fashion. A borderless aesthetic universe between man and woman. Contact with nature, looks, accepting each other. It's not about who you are, but what you want to be.
"In 'Bodies and Places', the seasons of life succeeds each other: a childhood in loneliness and drawing as the main companion; the first turmoils of adolescence and the unstoppable desire to move to the City; finally, the nostalgia of the adult, who acknowledges the importance of the same values that were neglected in times of youth." Federico Cina confirms his true talent. Able to tell and tell his story. And this is seen in every garment. This is the philosophy of the brand.
Alessandro Michele presents Epilogue, the concluding event of a three-part project presented in previous collections. A twelve-hour streaming marathon that allows the spectator to spy, concretely see what happens behind the scenes of an advertising campaign.
Alessandro Michele had the power to restore a pinch of democracy to fashion. How many things can happen in the fashion world. The layman does not know him. The big work, the commitment and the art. The invisible takes shape. Fashion is "a strange divinity that has great powers," explained the designer. To wear the garments, not models but the same creatives who work for Gucci and that those clothes have "built" them. “An epilogue that, at the same time, looks a lot like a prelude. A watershed that closes and opens at the same time, a threshold from which to start again to try to imagine tomorrow ".
“Michele reconfirms himself as a genius. The future of fashion can be this. The philosophy of the invisible. We can't understand what we don't see, it can scare us but it exists! Here is Gucci demonstrates how the creative process cannot end in 10/20 minutes of fashion show. It is a process that lasts months and "summarized" in the epilogue Michele immerses the public in the forbidden. The invisible, the forbidden fascinates. Is it a way to bring the public closer to creativity to understand it? I do not know. But surely Alessandro Michele with Gucci has overcome the taboo of elitist fashion.”