MARCO DE VINCENZO
PUM! THE UNISEX COLLECTION
by Giuseppe Castrenze
“PUM! is the noise that is produced through the birth of a new thing, but also of a surprise, of an emotion. It is a blow, an explosion, a kiss, a fall, a magic, a flash, a party, a fear or an awakening.” This is how the talent, Marco de Vincenzo identifies in his first men's collection, showcased in the Tepidarium del Roster; a greenhouse inside a historic villa in the Tuscan capital.
A collection where the designer does not lose the distinctive traits of his creativity, already widely established in women's collections. However, this is not a collection that breaks between men and women. It seems in fact a continuation, a real link. A new era of male glamor is born with Marco de Vincenzo: gentle and classy.
You can sense his desire to shape the material, to break it and reassemble it through a creative process that is not very simple, but characterized by the use of new fabrics and combinations. “I combine the basic garments with the pomp of fine workmanship, knitwear and also tulle, plissé, perforated vinyl, and lacquered macramé details. I like to model the material, respecting a man's need for functional clothes”, says the designer.
Vincenzo’s use of glittered wool fabric, t-shirts with sequins, and sparkling tweed, sends a 3D effect. On the catwalk, there is a shimmering mini card holder that Vincenzo says, "I interpreted as an object that today's man always carries with him on a journey in the world; a symbol of energy, the power inherent in each of us.” Man therefore appears to be a superhero who loves to juggle with extreme ease in an ever new environment. The watchword is freedom and fashion has the task of destroying any difference.
“I am fascinated by men who have more courage than me, those who dare with clothes, who represent themselves through fashion. Those who have conquered the freedom to dress as they wish...And fashion is perhaps the system that leaves them more free. Above all, that is a man who cares little about the prejudice of others.”