CAP 74024: ANTONIO MOSCOGIURI
Editor-in-Chief and Creative Director of CAP 74024, Antonio Moscogiuri tells his story without filters. This is not just an interview, but a reflection, a conversation about fashion, art, eros. A sociological conversation about what the future holds.
BY GIUSEPPE CASTRENZE
“Fashion is provocation, but above all desire. It has always accompanied me throughout my life and will always accompany me." - Antonio Moscogiuri
CAP 74024 is not an erotic magazine, it is not an art catalog and it is not a costume book. But a thought that revolves around eros, art and fashion. How was the magazine born?
CAP 74024 was born while I was studying. I studied at the IED (European Institute of Design). During my studies I learned to know how to express myself, to have the total freedom to be able to express my inner world, certainly creative, but a world in which I still believe and believed. As a thesis work I wanted to build something that could represent me at 360°. The things that I absolutely like and attract me the most are: eros, also understood as porn and desire, art as decoding of beauty, and fashion. Fashion that has always accompanied me throughout my life and that will always accompany me. I cannot ignore it. So I wanted to build an editorial project where I could combine the three things. I was impressed with a phrase by Silvia Venturini Fendi quoted in an interview: "The goal of fashion is to provoke desire". If you put a comma between provocation and desire, then you can understand how fashion is about provocation, but also and above all desire. Starting from all this I said to myself: "I want to do this". A magazine that has desire as its language, with highly erotic images but which also contains and speaks of art and fashion. This is how CAP 74024 was born.
...Then the magazine was noticed by the press. Everyone talked about it. Can you tell me in particular about the issue where Valeria Golino appears on the cover?
All the issues of the magazine are part of myself, or better still they are myself. Those who "live" CAP 74024 are people I respect and adore. The issue with Valeria Golino gave me a lot of luck. It is clear, it also takes intuition in this work. Valeria Golino is an actress I love, she is wonderful as well as being extraordinarily good at her job. I remember seeing one of her films entitled Respiro directed by Emanuele Crialese. I was very impressed by her interpretation. So at that moment I decided that I wanted her in my issue and so I did. That year Valeria Golino went to the Venice Film Festival with the film Per amor vostro by Massimiliano Gaudino and she won the Coppa Volpi for the Best Female interpretation. So the woman of the moment was on the cover of my magazine.
The nude is an essential element in CAP 74024. How do you define it?
The naked and raw body is a characteristic of CAP 74024. It is our language. Its strong point. An image that causes desire. It can be a classical statue, a flower, a body… This is also the conception of eroticism. What causes a feeling of falling in love and infatuation, of an impulse that you cannot control.
What is your conception of beauty?
For me beauty is what causes a certain mood in the viewer. When you use the expression drop-dead beautiful. It means that it stuns you, it displaces you. Then beauty is also what causes emotion, instability and above all excitement.
Voyerism is one of the themes that emerge from the magazine. "The lives of others can be more interesting than ours." Is it for this reason we are all a bit voyeuristic?
Absolutely yes. For example, social networks like Facebook, Instagram what are they if not a voyeuristic tool to sneak into someone else's life? We are the generation that communicates through the images, which we tend to see filtered through a screen. When we do not see them, it is because we are inside them. We are the subjects of the images and the others look at us. This is the principle of CAP 74024. I am a voyeur. We all are. However, I wanted to translate this type of phenomenon and behavior to a higher level, sublimate it. Looking into the lives of others becomes art and changes into something different, it can be fashion, poetry, beauty...
How was the Les Hommes Publics et Les Femmes Publiques project born?
Les Hommes Publics et Les Femmes Publiques has a language other than CAP 74024. The latter has a very specific target, which distinguishes it. CAP 74024 has an extremely vertical positioning and a decidedly horizontal interaction with the public. It is not intended exclusively for professionals of the business, but it is certainly possible to fully appreciate it by those who have a cultural background that unites the academy with the knowledge of beauty, whether they are pharmacists, lawyers, architects or those who have had a classical background. Les Hommes Publics et Les Femmes Publiques recounts classical beauty, that type of beauty which in a legal language would be said to be valid erga omnes. The objective beauty is on the spotlight, the one you like, that makes you feel good. Beautiful bodies, beautiful photography, beautiful faces, "canons" that are not discussed. It has a type of visual language that can be understood by a decidedly wider audience. If only that it's all done in black and white. This project was born because I felt the need to create a wide-ranging editorial product, reassuring in aesthetics and virtuous in beauty. It satisfies me also on a personal level.
Your great-grandmother Rosa used to say to you: “Always be wary of those who eat too quickly, of those who speak only if asked, by those who never change the color of their clothes and by those who, when they introduce themselves, say -Nice to meet you! -". How close are you with Manduria and Puglia?
Puglia and Manduria are always inside me forever. Manduria is precisely in the name of the magazine. In fact, the zip code of my country gives the name to the headline. I love my land, I could not do without it. Going back to voyeurism, it all started right there, where I took my first steps. And where do you think this behavior reaches the climax? Where do the lives of the others become the topic of people’s everyday talks? Just in the provincial countries, where everyone knows everything about neighbors. If for me this type of reality has always been an asphyxiating hood, then this oppressive and negative force has turned into a positive explosive vibe. And therefore everything came to life from there.
Where do you find your inspirations?
By living. From anything. Basically from what turns me on.
"I don't have a precise style, I move sideways, like the cuts of Madame Vionnet's clothes”, you said. How important do you think it is not to identify yourself in any label?
Much. By my nature I have always kept myself free and not channeled into any type of context, label or category. Always. This gives me solidity and the measure of reality.
The freedom to be yourself is therefore fundamental. This is one of the messages that we at Slippage through our work want to understand. What is the Gender fluid in your opinion and how do you conceive it?
For me gender fluid is normal. I love living in my world where I believe that these things have existed for some time, I do not dwell much in thinking and giving a real definition to the gender fluid. It is important, however, that there are voices and people who make themselves spokespersons.
In this climate of economic and social uncertainty caused by the coronavirus, fashion and the art sector have suffered and will be affected a lot. Can you give me some food for thought? In your opinion, what should you expect in the editorial field?
I have some doubts to be honest, it depends on the editorial realities. If they are established realities, the consequences could be fairly serious. And there is already a damage. As for edgy titles and all independent biannual magazines, it depends: someone, or perhaps more than someone, will be forced to close. Someone else, I can't tell you now who and why, will survive. But I want to be positive and think about different prospective scenarios. Nobody knows what exactly will happen. If everything recovers in the next half year, there is the possibility that people locked up in the house will find a spasmodic desire to buy and restore the life that was lost. And so there will be a boom in fashion and fashion publishing again. Today what people who buy paper titles are looking for is "the object".
Newspapers must be objects that you keep and don't throw away. Because they furnish you at home, they are also design elements. Obviously as in everything, returning to the above discussion, a natural selection will take place. What is said, the speeches that are made in reference to the fact that there will be new creative elements to explore and work on, are beautiful things to say but they are nothing more than palliatives. After all, fashion people like to do what they do, or the whole fashion “reality show ”. Which is the most beautiful thing, that I also like. It helps to create the charm of the mystery towards something that is high and - almost - unreachable. This is missing at all, it is useless to deny it. Closed-door fashion shows cannot exist. It is impossible. Nothing can be as beautiful and extraordinary as it is from life, if filtered through a screen. Fashion shows are totalizing experiences. They do not have the same value and the same emphasis when viewed on a tablet or a pc. What I learned from this quarantine is that human interaction cannot be replaced by any technological device. And thank goodness!